A weekend in Bergen, Norway
Despite the mere six hours of sunlight Bergen warmly embraces during the depths of December, this winter wonderland is an absolute must-visit for the holidays. Bergen, the “city of seven mountains,” stands as the second-largest city in Norway, but its quaint houses and cobblestone streets condense the city entirely. The gestalt of the city resembles that of a Hallmark movie: gentle flurries of snow slowly falling as sparkling star-shaped lights brighten the festive Christmas markets. With its fairytale-like atmosphere, Bergen is the perfect destination to get into the holiday spirit. Lace up your hiking boots and pack an extra scarf because the few short hours of daylight will be busy (and cold!) ones.
Accommodation
As a recent college graduate with limited finances, my accommodation options do not extend beyond youth hostels. Bergen is full of plenty of lovely hotels, but for those also sticking to a tighter budget, I would highly recommend the Montana Bergen Hostel. The atmosphere is quite homey and everyone makes an effort to connect with other people from all around the world. Unlike most hostels, the bedrooms are significantly smaller and max out at four people per room. No sleeping with 24 strangers! They’re all equipped with private bathrooms and lockers to store your belongings. Breakfast is included, and you will still have the opportunity to try typical Norwegian food, like their sweet cheese brunost or smoked salmon. Despite being a bit of a bus ride outside of the city, the hostel is conveniently located next to Mount Ulriken and has a stunning view of the city below. Out of the many hostels I have stayed at in the past few months, this one was by far my favorite.
Itinerary
DAY 1
Start at the Christmas market
After a long day of travel, unwind with a snack or two at Bergen’s Christmas Market at Festplassen Square. Indulgent scents of smoky German bratwurst being flipped on the grill and deep-fried Spanish churros getting dipped in thick hot chocolate will immediately flood your senses. The tangy mix of lemon and dill tzatziki emerges from the Greek gyro stand while thin crepes get stuffed with bright-red strawberries and whipped cream. Sweet or savory, there is something for everyone at the Christmas market. In addition to the international food affair, the market includes several small rides and even a ferris wheel to get an aerial view of the festivities below. Of course, what’s a Christmas market without shopping for Christmas? Among local artists, you are sure to find unique handmade gifts for the holiday season.
Dine at Olivia Zachariasbryggen
Undeterred by its thousands of miles of distance from Italy, Bergen offers authentic Italian food inspired by multiple regions of the pizza capital of the world. Olivia Zachariasbryggen is one of Bergen’s prime Italian restaurants, its warm ambiance making it the perfect temporary escape from the cold. The roaring fire in the fireplace and dozens of candles scattered throughout the dining room, paired with a glass of red wine, will take the chill off of your frozen hands in no time. Olivia Zachariasbryggen pulls influence from the island of Sicily, specifically focusing on flavors from Palermo. The menu includes three Sicilian-specific plates, as well as a more general selection of Italian food consisting of pizza and pasta. Begin your taste of Sicily with an appetizer of arancini, a typical fried street food served in a nduja aioli. Next, indulge yourself in an entree of pasta norma alla Olivia, penne lavished with fresh vegetables and spices. Cap off the night with a soft pistachio gelato. On the regular menu, you can enjoy a variety of thin and crispy pizzas or classic Italian pasta dishes.
Grab a drink at Magic Ice Bar
Cold weather is one of Bergen’s most distinct personality traits, so what better way to embody that than by having a drink at Magic Ice Bar, the self-proclaimed “hottest place to cool down.” Heat suddenly becomes overrated when you have the opportunity to enjoy Norway’s crowberry liqueur among tons of ice hand-carved by renown icecarvers. That being said, the bar does provide visitors with heavy ponchos and gloves to prevent actual freezing. With its exquisite display of ice sculptures and unique cocktails, the ice bar will surely wow you.
DAY 2
Wake yourself up with a warm drink and skolebrød
Time to start the day with a hot drink coupled with a traditional Norwegian pastry: Skolebrød, a buttery cardamom roll infused with a rich custard center. Typically, it is coated in coconut flakes; however, some variations replace the coconut with a drizzle of vanilla glaze. Either way, you can’t go wrong. Now, and I cannot emphasize this enough, the hot drink is absolutely crucial to get you through the next part of the day (it’s going to be a cold one). Whether that's coffee, hot chocolate or tea, this step is key.
Sail through Norway's beloved fjords
Bergen is often recognized as the gateway city to Norway’s famous fjords, so any sort of fjord tour is imperative. The best way to see the fjords is by water, and there are various options for boat tours, all within a wide range of prices.
Now what is a fjord you ask? Cue my degree in environmental science. Fjords are vast, narrow valleys of water surrounded by steep cliffs that are formed from receding glaciers. As the glaciers recede, they carry rocks and gravel that carve a depression in the land. This gives fjords the common U-shape and makes them deeper than the ocean. Water from melting glaciers and the open ocean then fill the valleys. The last instance of glacial melting occurred during the most recent ice age, approximately 11,700 years ago.
While it may sound hard to believe, the fjords are even more fascinating than their riveting geological description paints them to be. Towering peaks of the cliffs completely engulf your vision as you make your way through the valley. Snow-capped trees decorate the sides of the mountains and stand peacefully. A couple of tiny, isolated houses sit quietly along the sea. The reflection of these elements onto the glassy, almost-frozen water makes the entire scene truly picturesque.
Try Norwegian seafood at the Fish Market
After combating hours of windy and frigid conditions, treat yourself to a sensational lunch composed of some of the freshest fish in the world at no other location than the Fish Market in Bergen. From the outside of the glass building, bypassers can catch a glimpse of merchants cooking and preparing varieties of fish, fruit and vegetables. However, inside is where you can experience the spirit of vendors as they entice you to purchase their prized catches. Lobster tails, salmon filets and mussels rest on ice while chefs chop, steam and fry individual selections for their patrons. The distinct smell of fish lingers throughout the building, subtly encouraging shoppers to try a bite of Norway’s famously delicious seafood.
Contrary to its modern appearance, the Fish Market in Bergen has existed as the primary grounds of trade for fishermen since the 1200s. For centuries, the market persisted as an outdoor market and grew alongside the city. In 2012, Mathallen, the indoor market, opened and remains open year round for permanent stands and restaurants.
Mathallen features two must-try seafood restaurants: Fish Me and Fjellskål. Enclosed with glass windows overlooking Bryggen, these restaurants provide a cozy atmosphere for tourists and locals alike. Between the view of Bergen’s colorful waterfront, the chairs covered with fur throws and incredible fish dishes, Mathallen is the spot for seafood-lovers.
Ride the funicular to the top of Mount Fløyen for sunset
As the sun begins to make its early descent, there is no better place to witness the orange and rose painted sky than from the top of Mount Fløyen. Travelers have the option to take a short hike up to the top of the mountain, capping in at about 45 minutes to an hour, or ride the funicular to the top. Either way, you will not be disappointed in the view that awaits you. Lightly snow-covered houses sprinkle the valley of Bergen as the rocky mountains emerge from behind the foreground. The horizon engulfs the sun as the remaining orange and rose struggle to stay stained on the sky. As the atmosphere darkens, lights from within the picturesque Norwegian homes begin to twinkle one by one. Hundreds of Christmas stars glisten prominently in the frosted windows throughout the city, nearly outshining the stars in the coming night sky.
If there still happens to be a little bit of daylight by the time you make it up there, I highly recommend walking further along the trail to a small goat farm. About a dozen energetic goats prance around the top of the mountain, practically begging to be pet by hikers. Their goofy character is the cherry on top to a beautiful sunset.
Dinner on a budget
Here’s where the “I’m on a budget” aspect of my travels really begins to come to light.
Instead of another moderate-to-semi-expensive dinner, we elected to grab food from the grocery store and cook at our hostel. That doesn’t mean that we missed out on trying different Norwegian staples! The smoked salmon from any grocery store is still incredible and satisfies that taste-of-Norway craving. Combine that with a slice of buttered rye bread, cucumber, tomato, etc. and you have yourself a traditional Scandinavian smørebrød.
DAY 3
Hike up Mount Ulriken
Day three begins with another hike! Fuel up with a quick breakfast because you won’t want to miss this immaculate sunrise. Winning the title of the highest mountain in Bergen, Mount Ulriken is home to one of the city's most popular hikes. The trail is known for its famous Sherpa steps: 1,500 stairs leading to the top of the mountain. Yet with every stair the view continues to escalate, and the momentous feeling at the top is surely worth the heart-pumping leg day. Beneath you lies a quietly stirring city as the sun begins to cast its morning glow. A freshly powdered layer of snow lies under your feet as you can hear the crunch of it with every step. If you walk a little beyond the peak of the mountain, losing sight of the city, you will start to feel like a National Geographic explorer hiking through a remote tundra.
Warm up with hot chocolate
What better way to warm up and reward yourself after climbing 1,500 stairs than with a cup of hot chocolate. Lie Nielsen is one of the many delightful cafes in Bergen. With several locations dispersed throughout the city, it serves a mean cup of hot chocolate and has an extensive selection of pastries. Enjoy some more skolebrød or try another Norwegian delicacy: hvit dame, a variation of a marzipan cake. Similar to Sweden’s princess cake, Norway’s version is simple and elegant. It is composed of three layers wrapped entirely in marzipan. The first is a delicate bed of sponge cake, blanketed in juicy raspberry filling and topped with fluffy whipped cream.
Take a stroll through Bryggen
Nestled in a row like monopoly houses on a board, the quaint and colorful Hanseatic heritage buildings make up Bryggen: a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Bryggen, which translates to “the dock,” exists today as a small shopping area with charming, locally-owned shops, museums, restaurants and pubs right along the harbor. The area is recognized by UNESCO for its architectural heritage, as the style of the houses is connected with the Hanseatic League, a medieval commercial merchant guild throughout market towns in Central and Northern Europe. Dating back to the 14th century, Bryggen has continued to uphold its structural significance as a symbol of one of Northern Europe’s oldest trading ports.
Be sure you walk through the alleys and explore some of the stores beyond the brightly-painted facade. As you will notice, there is no lack of stores selling traditional Norwegian sweaters made of 100% wool. The designs are perfect for the winter and the quality is guaranteed to keep you toasty. From pullover to quarter zip to cardigan, these sweaters are a perfect gift to remember your trip by. Not a sweater person? Consider taking a look at wool mittens, hats or scarves!
Experience the largest gingerbread town in the world
After browsing through dozens of shelves of wool sweaters, take a short walk from Bryggen to the KODE Museum to witness one of Bergen’s holiday pride and joys: the largest gingerbread town in the world. Crafted by Bergen residents themselves, Pepperkakebyen, or The Gingerbread Town, is an incredible display of gingerbread houses, churches, stores, monuments and castles. Every Christmas since 1991, schools, companies and families have come together to create this city of gingerbread. From the Eiffel Tower to Big Ben, Pepperkakebyen allows you to travel around the world in a few short minutes, all the while inhaling the mouth-watering smell of gingerbread. The pure talent from these gingerbread experts will surely inspire you to step up your baking game in your own kitchen.
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Dinner on a budget (again!)
Like I mentioned earlier, the tight budget only permitted for one nice dinner out, so we stuck to cooking at our hostel again. Apologies for being boring, perhaps one day I will take another journey to Bergen with a bit more coin in my pocket and enjoy some of the finer dining. But, there's comfort in knowing that you can take the trip of a lifetime without spending all of your savings.
And that’s Bergen in three days! Three days is definitely enough to make it one of your favorite European cities, and you will already want to start planning your next trip back!
